A few weeks ago the volunteers went camping in the Negev with one of the more experienced guides on the Moshav. It was a beautiful experience but also eye-opening. On our way we stopped in Hebron to see the tombs of the patriarchs. While driving our guide pointed out lines on the road that indicate which side Israelis or Palestinians are permitted to drive on. Driving on the wrong side will get you a year-long stay in prison, at best. The loneliness and desolation of the city struck a poignant chord in all of us. In the past, we were told, there were open air markets and people walking everywhere but there was so much violence in the markets that vendors are no longer allowed on the streets, so the whole city seems abandoned.
If you want to visit the tombs you are obliged to state your country of origin, no one who is Muslim is allowed to enter through the Israeli side, and no one who is Jewish is allowed to enter through the Palestinian side. We were told by our guide that the conflict in Hebron reached its tipping point in 1929. A violent massacre caused the entire Jewish population of Hebron to leave and for the first time in thousands of years there were no Jews in Hebron. Their children would return, more radical than ever, years later at the founding of the Jewish State in 1948.
Later when we reached our campsite, we stargazed with our weathered war veteran turned tour guide and our group of volunteers, and watched in awe as a shooting star soared across the desert sky and the moon rose from behind mount Cana’im. I think I’ll take it as a sign that I’ve seen more shooting stars since I’ve been in Israel than I have in my entire life before. In the morning we climbed Mount Cana’im and watched the sun rise. That afternoon, our last afternoon, we climbed to Masada, where Jewish Civilization in the Land ended violently, but not without hope, and watched fighter jets tip their wings in reverence as they passed over. And finally after two days of hiking and learning, we returned home, to our little Moshav in the Judean Hills.